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Gun Lubricants and Protectants
Monday, January 29th, 2007 | Guns |
So I’ve been researching gun oils lately.
It started with gunsmith Grant Cunningham has advice on gun oils and lubricants. One of his recommendations is Dexron-type automatic transmission fluid, available for a few dollars at auto parts stores. His favorite is something that isn’t considered a gun lube at all - Lubriplate “SFL” NLGI #0 grease, which is used in the food service industry for machines that come into contact with food. I did notice he claimed poor corrosion resistance for WD-40, which did well in the some of the tests I found.
And here are those tests.
Brownell’s - Birchwood Casey Sheath, Boeshield T-9, Break-Free LP, Break-Free Weapon Wipes, Brownells Cosmoline, Brownells Rust Preventive No. 2, Hoppe’s Lubricating Oil, Rig Universal Grease, Tetra Gun Lubricant, Valvoline 5W-30, and WD-40.
6mmBR.com - FP10, Corrosion-X, Eezox, BreakFree CLP, Strike-Hold, Rem-Oil, Slip2000, Mobil-1 15W50
The Gun Zone - Kleen Bore TW25-B, Break Free CLP, Break Free LP, Shooter’s Choice Rust Prevent, Birchwood-Casey Sheath, Remington RemOil, Eezox, WD-40, Kano Kroil, 3-in-One Household Oil, Sandaro Industries’ Bore Cote, Miltec-1, Sandaro Industries’ Arms Cote
Those tests are pretty harsh. They use raw, untreated steel (or nails in The Gun Zone test) exposed to water and even saltwater. Some highlights:
Boeshield T-9 - Based on Brownell’s test I’d be inclined to use Boeshield T-9 in a saltwater environment.
Hoppe’s Lubricating Oil - Very poor rust inhibitor in the Brownell’s and Gun Zone tests.
WD40 - WD40 did well as a rust preventer, but it’s not a very good or long-lasting lubricant. Also, as WD-40 dries it leaves behind a residue, so if you use it wipe off any excess and don’t spray it inside the gun where a buildup could cause problems. That means you’ll need another product besides WD40 to use internally, in addition to a cleaning agent like Hoppes #9 solvent. It is a good thing to know if your gun gets soaked and you want something to displace the water (the WD stands for water displacement) and protect it from rust until you get home and clean it.
Breakfree CLP - Me, I use Breakfree CLP nine times out of 10. It’s a cleaner, lubricant and preservative (hence CLP) so I use it for everything: cleaning and protecting the bore, lubricating and protecting internal parts, and wiping down the outside of the gun. It’s available everywhere guns are sold, comes in several spraycan sizes or a bottle small enough to fit in my range bag, and the price is reasonable. Breakfree CLP contains Teflon particles for lubrication. According to the instructions you should shake the container before use to suspend the Teflon. CLP did very well in the tests for rust protection (though not as well in Brownell’s test, for some reason), so I don’t see any reason to buy anything else for routine use.
7 Comments to Gun Lubricants and Protectants
A couple of thoughts:
1) Oil is for rust protection, grease is for lubrication. Oil fails as a lubricant because it won’t stay put.
2) Motor oil, dextron and the like smell awful and can ruin fine wood.
3) What works? For rust protection, I’ve had great luck with good old Hoppes gun oil; eezox, which I’m still experimenting with now, is the first product I’ve found which might make me switch. Kroil is a great cleaner and rust dissolver, RemOil a good silcon spray, for internals and trigger parts. If there is any real difference between any of the various good quality greases available, I’ve yet to see it. Boiled linseed oil smells great on wood stocks.
January 29, 2007
Correction: RemOil is teflon, not silicone.
I’ve used it to spray inside the actions of handguns, and into rifle trigger mechanisims, after they have been cleaned with things like lighter fluid or brake cleaner. Never had trouble with rust or gunk buildup afterwards and it seems to function well as a lubricant.
This is the first I’ve heard of using Dexron as a lubricant. I’m very familiar with it, as I had to learn all about lubes when I was an Air Nasty Guard meck-a-neck.
It’s “High Detergent”, which means it has properties which cause it to vigorously clean the metal pores of whatever might be hiding in them, such as a nice layer of lubricating grease, but it’s only so-so as a lube, because it’s real function is to act as hydraulic fluid in an auto trans, where there is a lot less friction and heat than in the top or bottom ends of an engine.
I wouldn’t use Dexron on a weapon, especially an autoloader, because there are so many better lubes as in the post above.
Where Dexron is VERY useful is as a gun cleaner. Because of it’s red color and it’s high-detergency qualities, it is the main ingredient in “Ed’s Red”, a homebrew gun cleaner which very closely resembles the chemical makeup of OLD Hoppe’s #9.
For any gunnies who have been around guns for 30 years, the old stuff really worked, the new stuff is half-assed because they took the heavy-duty “methyl-ethyl badshit” (technical term!) out of it at the urging of the company lawyers.
The military has a gun cleaner that is chemically identical to Ed’s Red.
For less than a sawbuck, you can make up almost a gallon of Ed’s Red. Go to Father Frog’s website, or Surplus Rifle dot com for the formula.
I’ll second Eezox. I’ve been using it for a year now. The first time you clean a gun with it is a OMiGawd moment–you get crud like you’ve never seen. However, after several times shooting and cleaning with Eezox, my guns clean faster than they ever have before. No rust on anything, either. It’s on my “Expensive but worth it” list.
October 12, 2007
How do you like Slip2000 products? Did it hold up under the salt water tests?
Thx
Bruce
I was surprised not to see Ballistol metioned.
I am using it to take care of my father’s Walther PP, and it was recommended to me by a friend that uses it exclusively on his H&K arsenal.
Ta,
Davey
Hi,
I just bought again red transmission fluid to use it on my black powder revolvers .
The shine after I put it on my guns are very gloss plus the stuff is a excellent rust protected.
Before I use it many times in all my guns but now I do only carry and own black powder weapons .
I sold all my regular firerarms because I was loosing money with them .Antique guns are better for money gain which is one of the items that I own weapons.
The red oil is very fine for the black powder guns and when I take them to the local gun range I will have any hustle fired them .
Besides,remember black powder guns are in needed of oil or grease in the chamber to prevent chain fire or multiple fired at one time .
So what I do now is add or put the red oil in the top of the barrel and let it down through the barrel to seal and clean the blued it .
Blued steel barrel are very proof to rust as well heat that comes from fired the guns and the red oil lubricate the barrel fine and at the same time soft too the rest of the revolvers.
The other day when I did take my .44 calibers black powder revolvers to the local range I did note extra power after I oil the guns good with the red oil .I saw more muzzle velocity and more foot-pounds power and the 451 lead balls.
The muzzle velocity went from 725 to 759 FPS with also more ft-lb power .Very happy with the red oil this days .
Thanks.
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January 29, 2007