From a thread on The High Road:
Put your anchor point through pre-drilled hockey pucks. I used 5. The hockey pucks are very dense; hack saws bind up in them; sawz-alls melt and bind. The inch gap allows compression with the bolting plus air flow. DO NOT bolt directly to concrete, subfloor, etc… the safe RSC will rust and stick to the floor. Hockey puck work great, provide air space, and compression.
Safes need to be bolted to the floor and/or wall. Using hockey pucks around the bolts sounds interesting. More airflow, and something else that would have to be cut through. Does anyone see any flaws in the idea?
Bonus! – 6mmBR’s Gun Safe Buyers’ Guide
RSS Posts Feed
Before drilling the hockey pucks, toss ‘em in the freezer overnight. Makes it a lot easier.
I made up a benchblock for a 1911 out of a hockey puck. Apart from me and Mark Steyn, they’re Canada’s best contribution to western civilization.
Could they provide a surface where a sledgehammer (with or without chisel) could be used to snap the bolts, thus de-anchoring the safe?
I’d probably call the safe manufacturer before doing that. Sounds like a good idea, but I wouldn’t assume the bolt locations are enough support.
I’d want to know where load bearing structures are under a 1000lb safe before mounting it. It would suck pretty bad to have the base sag (or rise) because you used too few pucks and blow your fire protection or structural integrity.
I bet hockey pucks are flammable, either in a house fire or if a torch is applied.
I wonder if a short cylinder – about 1″ – 1.5″ high – from thick wall (.5″) steel pipe, about 6 inches in outside diamater, filled with cement or small-aggregate concrete might be better. Kind of a “steel/concrete hockey puck”.
I contend that $200-300 spent on a safe mount is peanuts when the safe costs a few thousand dollars and the stuff inside it costs tens of thousands.
Freeze the pucks with Freon etc. and they will shatter with a hammer.