Les Jones: The Hill in St. Louis

October 09, 2003

Travel > The Hill in St. Louis

Melissa found this CNN article about The Hill in St. Louis. I need to scan our photos from that trip.

The Hill is Ethnic Town in St. Louis. At different times it was German-, Irish-, French-, or Spanish- Town. Today, though, it's markedly Italian, with Italian groceries and restaurants. We ate at Charlie Gitto's and a little neighborhood deli with bocce ball courts. Melissa's dad swears he'd pay a hundred dollars just to eat at Charlie Gitto's again.

Italian food isn't the only fare. When we were there two years ago there was a great tapas restaurant called Modesto's. Modesto's had - I kid you not - the best rice I have ever eaten. I have no idea how you make fantastic, superior rice, but their chef did it, and it opened my eyes to the differences between good and great food. Incidentally, the big culinary traditions in St. Louis are crab cakes and toasted ravioli, and every restaurant does them up right.

Until I have time to scan those photos and write up St. Louis, I'll recommend these things: the St. Louis Zoo and St. Louis Art Museum (both free and right next door to one another), the St. Louis Arch, Ted Drew's, and the Budweiser factory tour (free as in beer, with free beer). The St. Louis Zoo is the most fun, best laid out zoo we've visited. We liked it much better than the San Diego Zoo, and Melissa preferred it to the Chicago Zoo (which I haven't seen).

Take a pass on the botanical gardens and Mammoth State Park unless you've got time to kill. Laplace Landing is a good area to walk around, get smashed, and see a band, and riverboat gambling is nearby if that's what floats your paddleboat.

You can tell that St. Louis is one of those towns that took it right in the breadbasket at the end of the industrial revolution. You can almost see the wispy ghosts of the missing employees. You'll drive through town and notice an old brick manse and think, "That house would be wonderful if Bob Villa fixed it up." Then you'll pass a whole street of those houses. Then you'll notice an entire neighborhood of the same. Gradually it dawns on you why no one is rehabilitating those old houses.

Posted by lesjones

Comments

I live in Memphis and there's a small Italian deli just down the block from where I work called "Fino's From The Hill." Tthe owners are from St. Louis and moved to Memphis, hence the name.

Posted by: mike hollihan at October 10, 2003

Not only are the owners of Fino's from St. Louis, one of them was a high school classmate of mine (once we established that we were both transplanted St. Louisans, the first question we asked each other is the traditional St. Louis inquiry: "What high school did you go to?" :-)

I respectfully disagree with Les's recommendation to take a pass on the Botanical Garden unless you've got time to kill; make the time, dammit! Your soul will thank you for it later.

Also, I'll note that not only is the St. Louis Zoo one of the best in the country, it's also free to get in, thanks to St. Louis city and county voters approving a small tax that keeps the zoo and local museums free for all.

Posted by: Len Cleavelin at October 14, 2003

Len, it's odd: one of my college friends who also studied biology highly recommended the botanical gardens. It sounded like something I'd love, but for some reason Melissa and I both found it really boring. Maybe because it was crowded when we went, so everything took a long time.

Posted by: Les Jones at October 14, 2003

Hmmm...am I said biology major?

Terri and I had a great time when we went out there with Nancy F., but that's because we went around with the head horticultural taxonimist, and got a great tour of the herbarium, the Center for Plant Conservation's propagation facility, and MOBOT's library. You would not believe the book collection they have -- it's one of the world's best collection of medieval herbals, and they have an entire set of Linnaeus' theses. I wonder how much they could get if they put it all up for sale on eBay?

But as far as the garden itself goes -- it's just a bunch of purty plants. Big whoop. Sorry if we led you astray.

Next time you come up to DC though (hint hint), the Arboretum is worth a visit imo to see their collection of Chinese and Japanese bonzai. Now THAT is way cool.

-S.

ps - Ted Drewes rocks. We went on a sort of chilly Tuesday evening, and there still was a line like 30-40 people long. Meanwhile, the parking lot at the Baskin Robbins across the street was empty.
What kind of moron puts a Baskin Robbins across the street from Ted Drewes?

Posted by: Steve at October 15, 2003

I don't know what idiot put Baskin Robbins across from Ted Drewes, but it's been there just about forever (at least since I was in grade school, and I'm in my mid 40's now). I'm shocked that it manages to remain in business at that location; there are just some mysteries that man is never meant to understand, I guess.

Posted by: Len Cleavelin at October 15, 2003

Steve: you are indeed the mystery friend. No hard feelings or anything. You were dead on about Ted Drew's.

So the Metro Pulse article I mentioned above has some trivia I wasn't aware of. Marlin Perkins (of Mutual of Omaha's Wild Kingdom) was director of the St. Louis Zoo for a time. Way to go, Marlin. Great zoo.

Posted by: Les Jones at October 16, 2003

BASKIN ROBINS IS FINALLY GONE.

Posted by: AMY at March 25, 2004

I have eaten around the world...and Modesto's IS THE BEST. (even beating the Belgium 600 year old Bed & Breakfast place that was tops for 14 years until I found Modestos) The price is right too, most plates around $7.00. Hubby and I go every month. It's so good, I told Hubby I was willing to settle down across the river as long as Modesto's was open. (would buy a home on The Hill, but the school district isn't as good)
Does this sound "over the top"? Ha! What can I say, my taste buds are shallow!

Posted by: envoy-ette at October 31, 2004

This would have to be the first time I have heard anyone poo poo the MO Botanical Garden. The Botanical Garden is absolutely one of the finest institutions of its kind in the world. As a life long St. Louisian and a member, I am no doubt biased. Not sure what the problem was, but for anyone with any interest in the natural world, the Garden is a must see.

Posted by: Chris at July 21, 2005

i was searching stuff on The Hill on google and found your webpage, and i love to hear such wonderful things about the hill. i have family that lives in st louis so i go there quite often. i have to say if you havent been to amighettis yet to have a sandwich (the amighetti special) you are truly missing out this place is amazing! the entire hill is amzing and i am so proud to be a part of it. With being italian it is sucha huge deal to me. well thats all.

Posted by: amelia at July 23, 2005